When you set aside Sydney’s exuberance and head south to Melbourne, you encounter an entirely different spirit. Melbourne does not introduce itself loudly; it doesn’t try to impress. I
nstead, it walks up quietly, slips its arm through yours, and accompanies you. It is less flashy, less postcard-perfect, yet far richer in lived experience. This is a city that feels worn in rather than polished—young, relaxed, curious. Students, cafés, and beaches keep it constantly alive. Here, the idea of “eating well” is not treated with reverence or ceremony, yet it is executed with remarkable confidence and consistency. That, in many ways, is the essence of Melbourne. Sydney impresses at first glance; Melbourne unfolds over time. People do not rush here. Tables are not cleared early, and no one glances at their watch before ordering a second glass. Although it is a city of roughly five million people—only a one-hour flight from Sydney—its soul feels entirely different. Ask Australians which city is the most liveable, and most will answer without hesitation: Melbourne. Foreigners who live here tend to agree. The city is home to world-class universities, and American students in particular are drawn to it—education quality is high, while costs are far more reasonable than in the United States. While taking an Uber one afternoon, I met an American student earning his pocket money behind the wheel. The expression on his face made everything clear: he was genuinely happy to be here.
If Sydney is New York’s Midtown, then Melbourne sits somewhere along the Soho–Tribeca line. Flatter, easier, more European in spirit. But urban planning is not really the point, of course. The real question is a far more important one: what are we going to eat.
ATTICA
Attica is Australia’s most talked-about restaurant and has been a fixture on the world’s best restaurant lists for many years. As you might expect, finding a table here is extremely difficult. I have been twice, and on both occasions I relied on friends to help secure a reservation; otherwise, my chances would have been slim. The kitchen is led by chef Ben Shewry. Shewry has developed a quiet, introspective, and deeply personal culinary language. Attica serves only a set menu, with a single choice: whether to opt for the fish-based alternative instead of meat. Prices are high—very high—but what you experience here goes far beyond an ordinary meal. Of the twelve courses, ten were genuinely impressive. I chose the meat-free version and left thoroughly satisfied. My daughter, on the other hand, encountered one of Australia’s local culinary surprises: fried ants. It was almost certainly the first—and last—time she would ever make such a choice. If these kinds of experiences are not for you, it is wise to be clear in advance about certain dishes. The most iconic dish at Attica is kangaroo served with native plants. It is the clearest expression of Shewry’s philosophy—his narrative of place, memory, and nature translated directly onto the plate. By the end of the evening, it becomes abundantly clear that Attica’s reputation as Australia’s finest restaurant is no coincidence. Address: 74 Glen Eira Road, Ripponlea
CUMULUS UP
Cumulus Up is the two-storey culinary world of Andrew McConnell, one of the most influential figures in Melbourne’s dining scene. The ground floor, simply called Cumulus, is lively, energetic, and walk-in only—no reservations, a constant hum of conversation, and an open, bustling atmosphere. Upstairs, Cumulus Up is calmer, more settled, and reservation-only, with a dining room that invites you to slow down and stay. I came here for a long evening with a friend. One of the people at our table knew Melbourne’s restaurant culture exceptionally well, and the ordering was flawless. While he leaned toward meat-focused dishes, I chose from the seafood side of the menu. A very good American wine was opened, and the table naturally extended itself as the evening unfolded. The slow-cooked lamb shoulder is the restaurant’s defining dish and has remained unchanged for years. Generous, confident, and faultless, it neatly encapsulates McConnell’s cooking philosophy. This is food without unnecessary flourishes—clear, assured, and deeply satisfying.
Address: 45 Flinders Lane, Melbourne
EMBLA
Located in the heart of the city, Embla is a wine bar that fills up quickly during lunchtime hours. The kitchen is led by chef Dave Verheul. The menu is built around small plates, designed for sharing, tasting, and keeping the table pleasantly crowded. Embla’s greatest strength lies in its wine service—Australian wines presented properly, with the right glassware and at the right temperature.
Because of its central location, Embla has become a popular escape for the city’s white-collar crowd. Prices are relatively reasonable; if you are familiar with Istanbul, you will find the bill comparable to what you might pay around Cihangir. The anchovy butter toast is the dish that lingers in the memory— simple, restrained, and quietly satisfying.
Address: 122 Russell Street, Melbourne
ROCKPOOL
Rockpool represents the self-confident side of Australian cuisine. The culinary vision here has long been shaped by chef Neil Perry. There is nothing experimental about Rockpool; instead, the focus is unwavering: the right product, cooked correctly, served properly. Inspired by North American steakhouses, the restaurant places product quality at the centre of everything it does. The dining room is elegant without being stiff, and it is particularly enjoyable in the early evening hours. For those who enjoy seafood, Rockpool is one of Melbourne’s most reliable addresses. Two dishes have remained perennial favourites over the years: the wood-fired dry-aged ribeye and the stracciatella served with figs and pistachios. It is also worth noting that Rockpool maintains the same level of quality in its Sydney and Perth locations.
Address: Crown Casino, 8 Whiteman Street, Southbank, Melbourne
ROOFTOP AT QT
One of Melbourne’s rare elevated dining spots, Rooftop at QT is especially vibrant in the evening. City lights, a gentle breeze, and a good drink combine to create an atmosphere where time seems to slow down. The kitchen is overseen by chef John Lawson and the QT team, with a strong emphasis on sustainability. The ordering system here is refreshingly simple: you go to the bar, place your order, pay, and receive a number. Popular with the after-work crowd, the venue can be busy, so it is worth keeping that in mind when planning a visit. The QT building also houses a hotel with eight different room types, making it a lively destination well beyond dining hours.
Address: Level 11, QT Melbourne, 133 Russell Street, Melbourne.
SUPERNORMAL
Bearing Andrew McConnell’s signature, Supernormal draws inspiration from Japanese, Chinese, and Korean cuisines, built around a shared-plates concept. It is noisy, energetic, and relaxed. This is not fine dining, but when it comes to flavour, it is precise and confident. An ideal choice for an unplanned evening with friends, Supernormal has managed to retain its popularity over the years. Two dishes immediately come to mind whenever its name is mentioned: the lobster roll and the baked scallops. Either one alone is reason enough to stop by.
Address: 180 Flinders Lane, Melbourne
YARRA VALLEY DAIRY
The final stop on this list lies outside the city: a farm and its restaurant, Yarra Valley Dairy. Founded by John and Lorraine Sestak, it is an ideal escape for those who want to leave Melbourne behind and reconnect with nature. I will admit that my primary reason for visiting was the mixed cheese platter.
The farm raises sheep, goats, and cows to produce its own cheeses. Inside the on-site restaurant, these cheeses are served alongside locally produced wines. Fresh, crusty bread and olive oil made right here on the farm complete the experience. You place your order, take a number, and wait while taking in the view. In summer, sitting outdoors adds another layer of pleasure.
The valley is also home to several wineries, and because of its location, I recommend setting aside at least five to six hours. That way, you can explore the area at a relaxed pace and fully enjoy the cheeses, wines, and landscape.
Address: 70 McMeikans Road,