I hadn’t been to Bordeaux in a very long time. On my first visit, the city seemed tired, lifeless, and far from its former grandeur. But in the years since, a major urban restoration has brought new energy. Many run-down areas have been revived, and I now believe Bordeaux is worth visiting not only for its châteaux but also for the city itself.
If I had written this 20 years ago, I would have described Bordeaux as “lifeless, dusty and dirty, a once-grand city long forgotten.” I probably would’ve said, “Come here just for the châteaux.” But today’s Bordeaux, thanks to former French Prime Minister Alain Juppé’s two- decade-long commitment as mayor, has been beautifully restored and renewed. Juppé led efforts that turned Bordeaux into one of the world’s largest UNESCO heritage zones. In twenty years, he cleaned the blackened facades of medieval churches, baroque buildings, and Art Nouveau houses, while breathing new life into cafés, luxury nightlife, and even the old port districts, which have become vibrant destinations.A creative energy now radiates from new restaurants and contemporary art venues. The famous grapes still ripen just outside the city in iconic vineyards. There’s much to see in the city itself: the Esplanade des Quinconces, one of Europe’s largest squares, and the Quartier des Chartrons with its cobbled streets and elegant architecture. The Basilica of Saint- Michel is another landmark—its bell tower, the tallest in southern France, was started in the 14th century and completed nearly 200
years later. To explore the city, start by hopping on the sleek, modern tram system. A great first stop is the Bassins à Flot, a former industrial port area now cleaned up and filled with innovative galleries. Seafood lovers will be in heaven— Bordeaux offers some of the best oysters, scallops, and shrimp, always fresh and well-prepared.
LE GABRIEL
Le Gabriel sits by the riverside and has a touch of magic in the kitchen, thanks to chef François Adamski, who holds both a Bocuse d’Or and Meilleur Ouvrier de France title, and a Michelin star. This elegant all-white restaurant earned its first Michelin star within its first year—I’m sure a second one is on the way. The menu is a refined take on French cuisine with Mediterranean and Basque influences. If you choose the tasting menu, you’ll be asked to indicate whether you prefer fish or meat when booking. Sourcing is key at Le Gabriel: the fish and oysters come from the nearby Atlantic coast, and the lamb and veal from pasture-raised animals in surrounding villages. The lamb is served in three different styles—grilled, roasted, and sautéed. Desserts are equally elaborate, and the wine list is extensive, featuring bottles from nearby châteaux with very reasonable markups.
MAISON NOUVELLE
Maison Nouvelle is located in a beautiful stone building in the Chartrons market square. This is the latest restaurant from celebrity chef Philippe Etchebest, known from French television. Guests are welcomed as if into a friend’s home—the restaurant’s name translates to “New Home.” Etchebest is devoted to sourcing the finest local ingredients and creating exceptional seasonal tasting menus. You’ll find original dishes like mushroom-stuffed ravioli and sautéed foie gras, along with some exquisite vegetarian options. Welcome to your new home.
LA TABLE DE PAVIE
Located in Saint-Émilion, La Table de Pavie is a two- Michelin-starred restaurant run by chef Yannick Alléno. Housed in a former monastery that once gave shelter to pilgrims, it combines regional flair with Alléno’s signature sauces and finely balanced creations. Don’t miss the magnificent “pigeon soufflé.” Naturally, the meal is paired with outstanding Saint-Émilion wines for an unforgettable experience.
THE CHÂTEAUX
There are thousands of châteaux in Bordeaux. While the word may conjure up visions of grand historic castles, here it refers to vineyard estates with their own wine-making techniques. The most famous classification of Bordeaux wines dates back to 1855, and it remains highly relevant today.This system was created for the 1855 Exposition Universelle in Paris at the request of Napoleon III. The Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce asked brokers to rank the best wines, and within two weeks they produced a list based almost entirely on price. The result was 58 châteaux divided into five quality tiers. At the top was Château Lafite. Nearly all the classified estates were in the Médoc region, except for Château Haut-Brion in Pessac-Léognan. Despite the assumption that there’s only been one change since then, in reality there have been a few: Château Cantemerle was added in
1856, Château Pichon was split into two, and Château Léoville into three. The biggest change was Château Mouton Rothschild’s promotion from second to first growth in 1973, thanks to the relentless campaigning of Baron Philippe de Rothschild. Today, the classification includes 5 first-growths, 14 second, 14 third, 10 fourth, and 18 fifth-growth estates. Unlike Saint-Émilion, the classification remains fixed even if vineyard plots are sold or expanded.There’s also an unofficial group called the “super seconds,” estates widely considered to produce wines as good as the first-growths. These include:
Châteaux Pichon Baron Pichon Comtesse Lynch-Bages Léoville Las Cases Léoville Barton Ducru-Beaucaillou Cos d’Estournel Montrose Palmer Pontet-Canet La Mission Haut-Brion
The 1855 system also included 21 Sauternes and Barsac sweet white wine producers—9 first growths and 11 second growths. Château d’Yquem stands alone as the sole “Premier Cru Supérieur.” Out of the 6,000+ estates within an hour’s drive of the city, here are six to highlight:
CHÂTEAU LE PIN
A tiny estate in Pomerol producing one of the world’s most expensive red wines. Sold in 1979 by Madame Laubie to Belgian Jacques Thienpont, Le Pin was named after a lone pine tree and originally made wine in a farmhouse basement. Only 600–700 cases are produced annually from 100% Merlot grapes. No wine was made in 2003 due to a heatwave.
VIEUX CHÂTEAU CERTAN
Also in Pomerol and owned by the Thienpont family since 1924. It spans 14 hectares, planted with 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, producing around 5,000 cases a year.
CHÂTEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITTE
Dating back to 1365 and now owned by the Cathiard family, this 67-hectare estate produces red and white wines. Varietals include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Sauvignon Gris. They also produce second wines such as Les Hauts de Smith and Le Petit Haut Lafite.
CHÂTEAU LYNCH-BAGES
A fifth-growth in Pauillac, owned by the Cazes family. With 220 acres of vines, the blend is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. Produces 25,000 cases
of its main wine annually, as well as two second wines: Echo and Pauillac de Lynch-Bages.
CHÂTEAU PAVIE
Located in Saint-Émilion and owned by Gérard Perse since 1998, who transformed the estate with major renovations and the help of wine consultant Michel Rolland. The vineyard was upgraded to “Premier Grand Cru Classé A” in 2012, joining the elite few at the top of the Saint-Émilion classification.
CHÂTEAU MARQUIS DE TERME
A fourth-growth Margaux estate with a tasting room and a restaurant open on Saturdays. Its history dates back to the 18th century and it was part of the original Rauzan estate before being divided.
A TIP: HIRE A GUIDE
Bordeaux is full of surprises. If you’re unfamiliar with the city, hiring a local guide—even for just two hours—can be a great way to make sure you don’t miss anything. I had a fantastic experience with Bruno Beurrier, a native Bordeaux guide who also offers wine tours in Saint-Émilion.
Contact: +33 6 70 37 74 66